Tuesday, July 2, 2013

♥ Healthy Beauty ♥ Skin Care

So here it is guys! The first post in the Healthy Beauty Series!
This one will be all about my skin care essentials, as well as some tips and tricks I have learned along the way of my natural skin care journey.

Oh man, sorry guys! LOL ^

So quick overview:

SKIN TYPE: combo-dry, sensitive, acne prone. My skin is mostly dry, like 80% of the time, but in the summer I can get the slightest bit shiny in my T-zone. However, for the other 3 months my skin is always in need of moisture. I get tight, red skin and though I don't tend to flake, my skin just feels painful. It's also sensitive and takes some time to adjust to products.

For the last few months/year I have been suffering from moderate acne. I typically breakout on my chin and between my eyebrows, as well as just under my cheekbone. And I usually get whiteheads (or sometimes cystic acne, but it almost always turns into a whitehead..).

I have researched and researched natural skincare, and I personally have been a big fan of oils. However, there are a lot of misconceptions about oils and people's skins react differently to different ones, so they are very difficult to discover for yourself unless you experiment.

So let's get started.

THINGS TO AVOID IN YOUR SKINCARE
Sulfates: This topic has been beat into the ground but nonetheless people continue to use sulfates. These are terrible for you skin. Here's why:
  • They are irritants
  • They strip your skin of natural oils and moisture
Petrolatum (or mineral oil): Petrolatum is disguised as a moisturizing agent (ie baby oil) but all it truly is is a barrier. Mineral oils attract dirt and cannot be properly absorbed by skin making it ultimately a clogging, and rather useless ingredient.

Fragrance: Fragrances (unless stated that they are created using essential oils or are phthalates) contain phthalates, which is a chemical that basically messes with hormones.

Parabens: These are chemicals that are used to extend the shelf life of a product, but studies have been shown that can link them to cancers in humans. Though there are different takes on this study, they are skin irritants and can cause serious reactions in peoples skin.

Sunscreen: Now this is a difficult one because just about everything with an SPF has a chemical sunscreen (physical sunscreens are zinc oxide and titanium dioxide and are safer for the skin because they are not absorbed). Chemical sunscreen ingredients are irritants and are known to actually create more free radicals and damage your skin. For me personally, they also clogged my pores.

Here are a few more ingredients/things to read to get your research started:
12 Toxic Ingredients to Avoid
10 Synthetic Cosmetic Ingredients to Avoid
6 Scary Sunscreen Ingredients (and 6 safe SPF products)

THINGS TO LOOK FOR IN YOUR SKIN CARE
Aloe Vera: It is one of the first things that I look for in my ingredients lists. It is a skin pH balancer and helps skin draw in moisture.

Tea: White tea. Green tea. Rooibos tea. These are all packed with antioxidants and anti-inflammatory goodness (which means less redness and irritation).

Carrier Oils: Oils like sunflower, safflower, grapeseed, coconut, argan, jojoba, sweet almond, avocado (and more) are all easily absorbed by skin and moisturize by either drawing in or locking in moisture to the skin. And they are all NON-CLOGGING. Do not fear oils, ladies. Even those with oily skin can really benefit.

Essential Oils or Herbs: The most common that I find myself looking for is tea tree, chamomile, lavender, calendula, rosemary (and more) because these are all anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial ingredients that do not bother sensitive skin and help to heal clogged or damaged pores and skin.

Shea Butter: A rich and non-comedogenic butter that has major moisturizing and healing properties and is packed with goodness for your skin.

Vitamin E & C: Vitamin E (tocopherals) is a moisturizing ingredient that is naturally found in our skin and helps with the elasticity and suppleness of skin. Vitamin C (asorbic acid) is an antioxidant that protects skin from free radicals, sun damage, hyperpigmentation (scars/brown spots), and helps cell-turnover.

Don't those ingredients sound nicer and more friendly? Because they are. Here is some more to read up on:
Natural Skincare Ingredients
7 Important Natural Skin Care Ingredients (<--- this woman's blog is extremely helpful to those looking to go natural)
Understanding Organic Skincare Ingredients

The most important thing about your skincare is to DO YOUR RESEARCH! This does not mean read reviews from other peoples point of view and hope for the same results. You will waste a lot of money that way (trust me, I did) and probably damage your skin. Research by looking up any ingredients you don't know and see if they are harmful, comedogenic, or irritating. Avoid as many chemicals are you can. They do more harm than good.
These sites are extremely helpful (and reliable) when researching ingredients:
SkinDeep Cosmetic Database
GOOGLE! 

Now that some of that is cleared up, I will now share with you some do's and don'ts of skin care.

DO
Follow a regimen: Be strict with your skincare. Your skin cannot improve if it is getting taken care of 50% of the time. It needs time to accustom itself and absorb ingredients. So make sure that you cleanse 1-2x a day (if you are doing it once than make it at night so you can get rid of the days grime and splash your face with water in the morning), as well as moisturize and treat.
Exfoliate: Exfoliation is important in helping your skin heal and and prevent clogged pores. You should not be exfoliating your skin more than 3x a week, even less for more aged skin as the epidermis layer is thinner and can be more easily damaged. Choose an exfoliant that has fine grains or beads, as large granules (cough, St. Ive's, cough) tear your skin and leave room for bacteria growth. Look for ingredients like jojoba esters/beads (my fave), sugar, salt (more drying, use moderately).
Moisturize: EVERYBODY NEEDS TO MOISTURIZE. It drives me nuts when girls with oily skin don't moisturize their skin. They are asking for flaky, irritated, broken out skin. In order for your skin to stay healthy and clear and glowing is to make sure that it is not dry, which causes an overproduction of oil and thus, clogged pores. 
Use sunscreen: A good sunscreen is important. Whether it is an SPF moisturizer or not, you need sunscreen. Most natural sunscreens are moisturizing as well, so make sure to go natural, also known as physical or mineral sunscreens... look for zinc oxide and titanium dioxide! EWG Safest Sunscreens - Natural Sunscreens
Use lukewarm/cool water: Hot water is detrimental to your skin (just like heat is bad for your hair!) as it creates a drying effect. Cold water isn't as bad but it can be a shock to your skin and nerves, which can cause visible blood vessels. Use lukewarm/cool water to wash your face so that it isn't taken by surprise.
Drink water and eat right: This has been beaten to death but for some reason people still don't want to believe it. What you put in your body affects what your skin looks like. Water is the most important beauty product, it's what your skin is (basically) made of! Eating the right foods will also help your skins defenses.

DON'T
Sleep in your makeup:Oh my gosh. Just don't. You are asking for clogged pores. Remove all traces of makeup before you hit the hay. Even if you are exhausted, use your toner of a makeup removing wipe. It's better than leaving the days bacteria on your face.
Pick pimples and scabs: I am bad for this. I usually get whiteheads so it was so easy to just pop them and move on. I am paying for that now. Even if you feel a cystic pimple coming, do not pinch or pick the area. Just don't touch it! I know it sucks but they will eventually pop themselves when they are ready. If you pop them, you will most likely be getting some scarring.
Pull or rub your skin: Pulling at your skin or harshly rubbing it is irritating to your skin, especially if you are acne prone or sensitive. Be gentle and let your skin care products do their job, not your biceps. Not to mention, pulling at your skin loosens it and can cause premature wrinkles.
Forget your neck and chest:  This one is easily overlooked and I have to say that I sometimes forget as well. But your neck and chest are the two places that have the same sensitive skin as your face and is usually where aging is first noticed. So don't forget to wash and moisturize them as well.

HOW TO LAYER YOUR SKIN CARE
This can be very confusing for a lot of people, but there is a method to the madness of applying products to your face
1. Cleanse. Once your makeup is removed, obviously it is time to cleanse your face.
2. Toner. Apply your toner here. It is also beneficial for you to put your toner in a spray bottle so you can mist over your face and press it into skin with warm hands. This will keep skin moist for further absorption of products.
3. Correct. Now is the time to apply any correctors you might be using like blemish gels, skin brightener for hyperpigmentation, or a skin calmer for rosacea.
4. Serum. Apply your serum next. If you are using an antioxidant, it will help to put on during the day but is imperative that you use it at night in order to neutralize the free radicals in your skin cells.
5. Oil. If you are using oils, apply these now with warm hands and press into skin.
6. Eye cream. Apply your eye cream/serum/oil before your cream so that it is held into skin by your cream. If you are not using cream, apply it before your oils.
7.Cream. If you don't use oils, skip step 5 and go on and add your cream by dotting onto skin and smoothing and pressing into skin with warm hands.
8.. Sunscreen. Use this during the day. If you are planning on using your antioxidant serum during the day, apply it after your sunscreen.
 
Next, I will do an in-depth run-down of:

MY ROUTINE

Morning
Step 1: Cold Water. In the morning I splash my face with cold water a few times to remove any excess grime or oils that have accumulated throughout my sleep and it helps to wake myself up too.
Step 2: Andalou Naturals Brightening Clementine + C Illuminating Toner. Spritz on face to help with tone and T-zone shine.
Step 3: Heritage Rosewater and Glycerin. Spritz this on face after toner to help with moisture.
Step 4: Juice Beauty Blemish Clearing Serum. I apply 3-4 drops of this serum into my hands and warm it up and then press into skin.
Step 4: DeVita Solar Body Moisturizer SPF 30+. I use this on my face after my toner's have dried. It says it is a body moisturizer, but it's so natural that I use it on my face as well.
Step 5: Makeup.

Bed-time
Step 1: Coconut Oil. I use coconut oil to remove my eye makeup and it is the best thing I have ever used. Will take off literally anything and helps condition the skin around my eyes, as well as my eyelashes. I even noticed a little bit of growth!
Step 2: Thayers Witch Hazel. I spray this generously onto my face and using a soft paper towel or cloth I remove my makeup. I will repeat this step in order to remove all of my makeup.
Step 3: Andalou Naturals Apricot Probiotic Cleansing Milk. I pump about two pumps into my hand and massage my wet face with this cleansing for 1-2 minutes. Then I rinse off with minimal water and gently scrape it off with my hand. I try to avoid washing off as much of the ingredients as I can while still removing the cleanser.
Step 4. Nelsons Pure and Clear Acne Gel. I apply this spot treatment and brush my teeth so that I let it sink in before continuing with my regime.
Step 5. Andalou Naturals Brightening Clementine + C Illuminating Toner // Rosewater Glycerin. At night, I have a smaller spray bottle where I mix my toner and rosewater together. It's about half and half. I spray this mixture on my face lightly and wait for it to sink in a little.
Step 6. Juice Beauty Antioxidant Serum. Warm 3-4 drops in hands and apply by pressing into skin.
Step 7.  Andalou Naturals Argan and Omega 3-in-1 Glow treatment + avocado oil + almond oil. I take about 3 drops of glow treatment, and 2 drops of almond and avocado oil and then I rub together, dot onto face, and massage into skin. I try and avoid where I put my spot treatment.

TREATMENTS
Exfoliant: Burt's Bees Acne Solutions Pore Refining Scrub. I use this scrub every 3 days and I let it take the place of my cleanser at night. After I've exfoliated for about a minute, I let it sit on my face for another minute or so. I just like to let the ingredients truly sink in before washing it off and continuing with the rest of my regime.

Masks:
  • Andalou Naturals Glycolic Brightening Pumpkin Honey Mask.
  • Alba Botanica Papaya Enzyme Facial Mask
  • Isvara Organics Clear Skin Facial Mask
  • Aztec Healing Clay
I use a mask twice a week and depending on what my skin is doing I will either use a brightening mask (pumpkin honey or papaya enzyme), or a mask for breakouts (isvara or healing clay). I typically use a mask mid-week and then on Sunday.

IN THE SHOWER
Now, skin care does not just mean your face.
I take care of my all of my skin the best I can, which means my body is included.
The skin on my body is incredibly dry, all year round. All the time. And my back has a tendency to break out as well. I try to follow the same rules about my product ingredients as I do with the products I put on my face, though I am a touch more lenient about body products.
Body Wash:
  • Nubian Heritage Mango Butter Bar Soap
  • Nubian Heritage Coconut and Papaya Bar Soap
So I use these bar soaps because they are moisturizing and smell nice and don't contain ANY harsh ingredients. However, I use about half of each to create a liquid shower gel by melting the soap and adding coconut oil, shea butter, and aloe, because sometimes it is nice to have a body wash that you can take with you to the gym or someones house, etc etc.

Body Scrub:
  • Alba Botanic Acnedote Face and Body Scrub
  • Sugar + almond oil + olive oil
I use the Alba scrub on my back and chest before using a body wash so that I can keep my skin clear and the ingredients can penetrate. I use this everyday.
I make my own body scrub by just adding a sweet almond and olive oil to a bowl of sugar and scrubbing my body. I scrub my body probably every 3 days or so.

OUT OF THE SHOWER
Body Lotion: 
  • Desert Essence Almond Lotion
  • Desert Essence Tropical Coconut Lotion
  • Alba Botanica Kukui Nut Body Oil
  • Alba Botanica Kukui Nut Body Cream 
I tend to use the body oil right out of the shower and apply a lotion overtop. I use the cream for when my skin is ridiculously dry and itchy (cough..winter..cough) and it needs more moisture than usual.

Deodorant:
  • Secret Clinical Strength
  •  Kiss My Face Liquid Roll On
 I sweat a lot and I don't often smell badly, but during the cold months, I sweat more. For whatever reason.
I use my Secret Deodorant at night so it sinks in (I've heard that's how you are supposed to use clinical strength anti-perspirants?), and then in the morning I apply my Kiss My Face deodorant.
I know there is a big upset about deodorants and perhaps they are contain some dangerous ingredients, but I just don't think they are as much of a threat as people think they are. That's my opinion though. I won't stop using a deodorant that works because I feel like the chances of me getting breast cancer because of it, is very low.

Sunscreen:
  • Banana Boat Natural Reflect Sunscreen Lotion
  •  Hawaiian Tropics Sheer Touch Sunscreen Spray
No, they are not very natural. But I am very pale and I go through a lot of sunscreen, and they are affordable. Banana Boat is trying and though its not completely natural, it is better than nothing. I use the lotion for day to day, and then I use the spray (not natural at all) when I am going to be outside for long extended periods of time. I said I was more lenient with my body and I am. I am more worried about skin cancer than aging on my body.

Aaaand, that's everything! I hope this has helped some of you out and you were able to read my long speel!

Tata loves!
  

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